Sewing machine for cording



March 1 1927.

' c. F. RUBEL ET AL SEWING MACHINE FOR CORDING Filed July 12, 1926 5Sheets-Sheet 1 a: $551 Eukiifiit? March 1, 1927. (3. F. RUBEL. ET ALSEWING MACHINE FOR CORDI'NG 5 Sheets-Sheei; 2

Filed July 12. 1926 March 1 1927.

c. F. RUBEL ET AL SEWING MACHINE FOR CORDING Filed July 12. 1926 5Sheets-Sheet 5 an ch 1, 1927. 1,619,436

C. F. RUEEL. ET AL SEWING MACHINE FOR GORDING Filed July 12, 1926 5Sheets-Sheet 4 mm mg I I 1,619,436 March 1,1927. c. FRUBEL ET AL SEWINGMACHINE FOR 'C ORDING Filed-July 12. 1926 5 sheets sheet 5 Patented Mar.1, 1927.

CHARLES IF. RUBEL AND FRANK K'UCERA, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNORS TOUNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OFILLINOIS.

SEWING MACHINE FOR COBDING.

Application filed July 12, 1926. Serial No. 121,918.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a sewing machineand more particularly to a sewing machine for forming a corded seam.

An object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine having twospaced needles and a cooperatingthread-carrying looper with meansassociated with the looper for positioning the needle loop adjacent theheel of the looper so that the looper thread loop is entered only by theneedle adjacent the point of the looper.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of theabovetype with means whereby the fabric being stitched is formed with a ridgebetween the stitching "needles and a cord is fedinto the recess on theunder face of the material formed by said ridge, which cord is securedto the fabric so as to make a permanent ridge in the material by theneedle threads and the looper thread, which looper thread crosses saidcord and secures it to the material.

These and other objects will in part be obvious, and will in part behereinafter more same on the line 33 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a vertical sectional view through the cloth plate and theparts beneath the same on the line 4-4 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a detail in section showing the connection between theshaftwhich supports the loop positioning device and the lever whichmoves the same endwise.

Fig. 6 is an enlarged sectional view through the throat plate, presserfoot, feed dog, looper and thread positioning devices, takensubstantially on the line of feed.

Fig. 7 is a plan view of the throat plate, feed dog and cloth plateadjacent the throat plate.

Fig.8 is a sectional view on the line 88 of Fig. 7.

Fig. 9 is a view showing in diagram and' section the throat plate, thestitching element and the presser foot with the needles all the way up.

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 9, but showing the needle thread loopspositioned so that the needle at the left only will enter the looperthread triangle. 7

Fig. 11 is a plan view on a very large scale showing the fabric, thecord, the stitches and the stitching element at the time when the needleis positioned as shown in Fig. 10.

Fig. 12 is a bottom plan viewof the :[inished seam.

Fig. 13 is a sectional view on the line 13-43 of Fig. 11.

The invention is directed broadlyto a sewing machine for forming acorded seam wherein a cord isplaced on the under face of the fabric in arecess formed by a ridge in the material and is secured to the material' by needle thread loops and a looper threadloop, the looperthread loop passing from one row of needle thread loops to the other andserving as the sole means for cov- 'ering the cord and holding the cordboth to the material and the ridge in the material formed by the cord.

It is desirable that the stitching threads shall be so formed andarranged that when the seam is put under strain, during lasting forexample, the threads will not give, but will hold the ridge in. thematerial precisely in the manner that it is originally formed. In ordertocarry out'this arrangement of the threads it is desirable that theneedle thread loops shall be directly opposed to each other in theformed seam and that the thread loops shall be joined by a looper threadloop passing through opposing needle loops and secured by one needlethread loop only. The needle thread loop which secures the looper threadloop is on the opposite side of the seam from the laying of the looperthread; The thread carrying needles and the thread carrying looper areof the usualconstruction. y

Associated with the thread carrying looper is a loop positioning fingerwhich engages the needle thread'loop of the needle nearest the heel ofthe looper when the looper is in p into the-looper thread loop, but thelooper vSaid needle bar carries two needles 6 and 7.

Cooperating with the needles beneath the work support is a threadcarrying looper 8. This looperS is mounted on a looper carrier 9 whichispivoted at 10 to a looper support 11. The looper carrier is oscillatedon its pivot by a link 12 and the looper support is oscillated to give aneedle avoiding movement to the looper by an arm 13 which is fastened tothe supporting shaft for the looper support, and which arm cooperateswith an eccentric 14 on the main shaft 15.

The material is fed across the work supportby means of a feed dog .16.This feed dog is carried by a" feed bar 17 attached to a feed rocker 18.VThe feed rocker 18 is oscillated by an arm 19 connected in the usualmanner to a crank on the forward end of the main shaft 15.. The feed baris shaft 15.

thought necessary.

raised and lowered by a cam 20 on the main Cooperating with this feeddog 16 is an upper feed dog 21 carriedby a vertically disposed feed bar22. The feed bar 22' has an oscillating connection at 23 with theoverhanging arm 4 and is raised and lowered and moved back and forth bya mechanism indicated diagrammatically 'at '24 in Fig. 1 of thedrawings. All of the above mechanism is of the usual constructionandfurther detailed description is not The material is held on the worksupport by a 'presser foot 25 carried by a presser bar which isyieldably forced downwardly Iby, spring-27. The upper feed dog 21 isprovided with two spaced members cooperating with the outer sections ofthe feed .dog 16 and located between the spaced sections of the upperfeed dog for the presser footv 25. The presser foot 25 is provided withtwo spaced. sections 26, 26. V 3 is provided with an upstanding rib 27located in the space between the sections 26,

26 of the presser foot. This rib '27 has a longitudinal passage 28extending therethrough.

The rib is for thepurpose of forming a ridge in the material and thegroove 28 i'sfor the purpose of directing a cord beneath the materialand into the reces's formed by the ,ridge- 7 7 Before proceeding furtherwith the; description of the machine, the articleforined on the machinewillbe described. This articlej consists of a fabric F. -1The fabric 'Fiisformed into a ridge f and the cord 0 is as shown in Figs. 9 and 10.

The throat plate "laid on the under face of the material and in therecess formed by the ridge (see Figs. 12 and 13). The needle thread 11-is formed into a series of thread loops'n 'which-are passed through thematerial at one side of the ridge f. The needle thread a is formed inthe'series of loops n which are passed through the material at theotherside of the ridge. The thread loops n and n are directly opposed toeach other. The looper thread Z is formed into a series of loopsZ andthese loops Z pass through. first the" needle thread loop 01) andthenthe directly opposed needle thread loop a. The looper I thread loopis locked by the needle thread i-z.

loop a of the next formed stitch.

With this understanding of the article, the remainder of the mechanismof the machine will be described and the operation I thereof.

[is the material]? passes through the ItliL- chine beneath the presserfoot 25fand beneath the upper feeddog 21, the rib 27 will bend thefabric soas to form a ridge f. The cord 0* which maybe of any desiredmaterial is led through the passage 28, and

this places the cord in the recess in the under faceof the fabric formedby the ridge 7'. This ridge is so disposed that theneedle 6 carrying theneedle thread a passes down alongside of the ridge f and along one sideof the cord 0, while the needle 7 carrying the needle thread 2 passesdown alongside of the other side of the ridge f and theother Theseneedles 6 and Z.

side of the cord 0. V V lie in a plane cutting the line of feed at rightangles, and; therefore the needle thread loops at and n are directlyopposed, The looper Spassesthrough these thread loops witht-he looper8'is a thread positioninglinger 29 carried by an arm 30. This arm 30 isrigidly secured to a shaft 31, which shaft 31 is mounted in bearings 32,32 secured to the bed plateof the machine. The

shaft 31 carries a forked head 33 in. which is mounted a. vertical,shaft 3 1 slabbed to receive the forked end of an arm 35 which isadjustably attached to a lever 36.

forkedend of the arm 35 againstthe slabbed sides of the verticalshaftBt. The lever 36 Cooperating it screw 37 is provided for clampingthe (see Fig. 3) is mounted on a vertical stud;

38 and is oscillatedthereon'by an eccentric strap 39 cooperatingwit-haneccentric 40 on the main shaft 15 (see When the lever 36 is oscillatedit will move the shaft 31 carrying the supportfor the loop positioningfinger in an endwise'direction,

and this will move the gloop positioning finger lengthwise of the looperas the shaft 31 is parallel to the axis of the looper support and atright angles to the axisof os eillation of the looperv, I r I Thesupport 30 for the positioning finger is-shown in side view in Fig. 4.This support projects rearwardly from the shaft 31 the looper.

The parts are so timed that when the looper is retracted after it hasentered the needle thread loop, as shown in Fig. 9, the positioningfinger 29 will move'forward and across the body of the looper engagingthe needle thread loop '11 as shownin Fig. 10, and forces said looptoward the point of the looper and to the left of the right-hand needleas viewed in Fig. 10. By this positioning of the needle thread loop athe needle 6 will not pass into the looper thread loop, while the needle7 will pass to the left of both of the needle thread loops and into thethread triangle formed by the needle thread loop 01 the looper and thelooper thread leading from the point of the looper to a previous stitch.In other words, this positioning finger so positions the needle threadloop of the right hand needle as viewed in Figs. 9, 10, and 11, that theleft hand needle only enters the looper thread loop.

The result is the article described above;

that is, an article wherein the cord is held to the material solely bythe looper thread loopi passing through the needle thread loops, andfurthermore the looper thread loop is anchored or secured to opposingneedle thread loops, and therefore the strands of the looper threadafter passing through the right hand needle loop cross the cord in adirection at right angles to the length of the cord. The strands for thelooper thread loop then pass through the other needle thread loop, andthe looper thread loop is secured by the needle thread loo-p on the sameside of the cord that the loop issues from the needle thread loops.

By this arrangement a seam is formed wherein any strain on the seamcomes lengthwise of the looper threads and this prevents the needlethread loops from drawing apart, or the ridge flattening out.

The article produced on the improved machine is therefore especiallyadapted for making moccasins, or in the construction of shoes where,after the material has been corded either for the purpose ofornamentation or for the purpose of imitating a seam, the lasting of theshoe does not in any way disturb the corded seam.

It will be noted from the above that the thread positioning finger'has'four motions. ltnot only moves endwise of the looper, but movescrosswise of the looper. The timing off-this positioning finger is suchthat it moves across the looper and into engagement with the thread looptherein, and then moves the thread loop forward on the looper. After theneedle is well down into the thread triangle then the thread lingermoves away from the looper or returns for the beginning of its cycle ofmovement.

It will be understood that the stitch-forming mechanism may be used inother types of machines than in a cording machine, and. therefore theinvention is not limited to the specific embodiment illustrated.

What is claimed as new is:

1. A sewing machine including in combination two spaced needles, athread carrying looper cooperating with both needles, a threadpositioning finger and means for operating said thread positioningfinger whereby said finger moves across the looper into engagement withthe needle thread loop thereon adjacent the heel of the looper, and.moves said loop forward on the looper when the needles descend so thatthe looper thread loop is entered only by the needle adjacent the pointof the looper.

2. A sewing machine including in combination a cloth plate, a rib onsaid cloth plate, a presser foot cooperating with said rib for forming aridge in the material being stitched, a pair of needles located one oneach side of said rib, a thread-carrying looper cooperating with saidneedles, thread positioning finger and means for operating said finger,whereby said finger is moved across the looper and then forward againstthe needle thread loop thereon adjacent the heel of the looper formoving said loop forward on the looper so that the looper thread loop isentered only by the needle adjacent the point of the looper.

3. A sewing machine including in combination a work support, a rib onsaid work support, a presser footcooperating with said rib to form aridge :in the material being stitched, said rib having a passagetherethrough for guiding a cord into the recess formed in the fabricbeing stitched by said rib, spaced needles, one on each side of saidridge, a thread-carrying looper cooperating with both needles, a threadpositioning finger and means for moving said finger into engagement withthe needle thread loop adjacent the heel of the looper for moving saidloop forward so that only the needle adjacent the point of the looperwill enter the looper thread loop.

' 4. A sewing machine including in combination a feeding mechanism,needles spaced from each other and located in a plane at right angles tothe line of feed, a threadcarrying looper cooperating with said needles,means associated with said lo oper &

needles, and means associated with said looper for engaging the needlethread loop on the looper adjacent the heel of the looper ,tor movingsaid loop forward on the looper that the needle adjacent thepoint oi'the looper only will enter the looper thread loop.

5. A sewing machine inclnding'in combination a feeding mechanism,needles spaced from each other and located in a plane at rightangles tothe line of feed a thread carrying looper cooperating w1th said forengaging'the needle thread loop on the ill) looper adjacent the heeloff-the looper for moving said loop forward on the looper so that theneedle adjacent the point of the looper only will enter the looperthreadloop, and means for guiding a cord beneath the fabric and between the"paths of the needles whereby said cord is sec-ured'to the fabric by thestitching threads only.

7 6. A sewing machine including in comhi nation a feeding mechanism,needles spaced from each other and located in a plane at right angles tothe line of feed, a threal for guiding acordbeneath and into the recessformed by said ridge whereby said cord is secured to the fabric and theridge maintained therein solely by the stitching threads.

7. A sewingmachine including-in combi nation a tlnead-carrying looper, athread poslt oning Yfinger associated with said thread-carrying looper,means for supporting said thread positioning finger and giving thereto amovement across the looper, thence forwardly on the looper, thencelaterally away from the looper, and thence rearwardly alongside of thelooper toits initial starting aosition, said stitch positioning fingerbeing adapted-toengage a needle loo-p on the looper and move thesainetoe-ward toward the point of the looper.

8. A sewing machine inelndingvin'con' bination, two spaced needles, athreadcarrying looper cooperating withboth needles;

means looper needle looper means for giving said thread carrying amovement into and out of the thread-loops, means for givingsaid a needleavoiding movement, and

the looper when the needles descend so that .the looper thread loop isentered only by the needle adjacent thezpoint of the looper.

In testimony whereof, we aliix our signa tures' erniRLEs F. RUBEL.

FRANK KUGERA.

for moving the needle thread loopad acent the heel of thelooper forwardon

